I have had to pull it a few times to get it started because it just wouldn't start. I hope this was helpful you. I had a fuel pump put in it about 18 months ago. Might want to replace the fuel filter first before you pull the tank down again. Ensure that the spark plug towers are perpendicular to the centerline of the engine. If I still have trouble, I will start replacing all the items you mentioned.
If it isn't then you need to move the distributor to where number one plug wire is. It would not start today and it was damp outside. It just happens to be directly above the coil wire on the distributor cap. I have a ford f-250 pickup and it will not start either. Please run down this guide and report back Cheers We checked it again this morning and we did get a code this time. The garage changed out the distibutor, cap,rotor and they could not even figure it out. Maybe just the time it took to get the neighbor solved the problem and when he hit the tank you guys just assumed it was the pump? A no crank no start or a cranks no start.
Now see where your rotor is pointing, it should be pointing where number spark plug wire is. That is to seal the bottom of the distributor cap with a little grease to keep out any moister if something doesn't fit tightly. I changed the fuel pump because sometimes I didnt hear it running and it would start right up. Try these few suggestions and get back to me with your results. I like your idea about sealing the bottom of the cap. I'm just wondering if I put new ones in wont they get fuel fouled like the ones in there now if that is whats wrong? After that, first, fuel must pump out from your injectors.
Can you get a scan for codes? Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft to the drive tab of the distributor. Thank you for getting back to me. If voltage reading is more than 8 volts, go to next step. I don't even have to drive it the day it rains. It usually doesn't rain here very often. It has been three days now since I worked on the drip and the coil wire.
Your best bet is to have someone check to see if there are any trouble codes stored in the computer memory. This does happen once in a while and you should be able to have the starter tested where you bought it from. My way cuts down on diagnostic by ruling out the easy to test shit first. I started out with a full head of hair, I'm down to just a few strands now. As mentioned before, usually one of them will be missing from the mix. I put a code scanner on it and it shows no codes. As soon as it does rains, and I have a chance to get to test it with the same conditions it failed in previously, I will seal the bottom of the cap as you mentioned.
I just had a friend tell me they had a blazer, and the same issue. I thought I had it figured out once. I checked it on the engine. I friend of mine has a 98 blazer that will not start in damp weather. Using scan tool, check Ignition 1 input. I have also had caps that don't seal around the bottom edge that seats on the distributor body.
Any one shed some light on this problem? But spark can be missleading if there is no fuel injector pulse. I've done both of those replacements since this past Tuesday, when the issue started. Bad idle control valve 5. How old are your spark plugs and wires? This can jump start a weak fuel pump. This could be cause by a cracked distributor cap, burned rotor causing the spark to go to ground through the distributor shaft, timing chain that may have slipped a tooth or two causing the mechanical valve timing to be off causing a back fire or no start condition. I would also check the spark from the ignition coil, and test the ignition module.
We can go on from there. Started the engine ran fine. If not, check fuses under the hood and in the cab, also check the fuel pump relay, If you can hear the fuel pump run in the tank I would check for spark because it sounds like a crankshaft angle sensor has failed. It was running great, then for no reason and with no lights coming on and no strange noises it just shut off and we haven't been able to start it since, unless we put fuel in the throttle body, then it will start and run for just a sec until the gas burns out. I've looked up these problems and I've been replacing the bad parts one after another.
I would turn the ignition off, open the door, wait for the Security light to flash, and shut the door. He hit it once with a hammer and on cranking the car it started. I keep one extra of everyrhing in the vehicle bcs when these replacement parts go bad they go bad fast and i travel alot for camping n concerts n stuff. Thanks everyone for your help! This thing has been giving me a fit for over a year. This can be done pretty quickly and easily by someone with a vacuum gauge who knows how to use one. As for the injectors, I poured fuel and starter fluid directly in the carb, shouldn't I have gotten some sign of wanting to start? If fuel did not come out, next check to see if fuel is even making it up to your injectors from the tank.
I did a little poking around and most things suggest checking the fluids. Install the electrical connector to the distributor. Thank you all in advance. . Once the engine starts it takes a second or two to burn off the excess fuel causing the fast idle speed. I got a brand new distributor it is a gm 23. Should I pull a plug and check for spark at the plug? My friend I am still having the same trouble with this 2003 S 10 truck it has 4.