How were you guys able to remove the gusset or dust cover from the transmission, I'm trying to unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel??? Their focus is on safety-related issues. There was a problem with acceleration - with acceleration pedal fully depressed engine was revving up to ~2,200 rpm and car barely accelerated like it was slippage in the transmission. This happened sporadically and it also occurred while driving on a highway. I'm very frustrated and don't know where to go from here--hopefully he does. Transmission is faulty at 42k miles.
He described my problem when I said it shifted funny. Make sure drain plug is installed and tight. It occurred several times, never any warning light was on. I did it by dropping the engine from the bottom. With the oil almost completely drained, I'm just going to reinstall the drain plug loosely. You just want to push in the tab on the top and pull up on the harness.
Motorist pulled into available parking spot, nose first, and slowed down. With those bolts removed, you can pull the radiator fan up and out. You just want to pry out each one of these clips. You might want to take it in to a dealer for this. One on one side, go to the opposite side, tighten it, and work your way around the pan. Below is a brief desciption of its function as well as a picture of its location for you.
The driver states there was a recall done on the electronic control module last year at 32,433 miles. We'll just fast forward as Don tightens those up. The transmission dip stick says use only Nissan Matic J Fluid. My warranty is gone so I don't even care for taking my car in. It even happens when we have been driving the car and pull in to a parking spot , we are unable to get the car into park.
Now, put that small hose at the top of the radiator back into place and slide the clamp forward. Shortly after that the car died. Nissan headquarters got involved and determined another transmission was needed. After one lap at creeping speed of 5 mph, motorist found an unoccupied parking spot facing the woods. Brought to you by www. The problem usually occurs when I shift from park to drive before the rpms drop below 1000.
I think you are probably spot on when it comes to aligning the tranny to the engine would be a major pain instead of just doing it out on the garage floor. I had to depress the accelerator almost to the floor and then it moved gradually and then quickly picked up speed. This issue was resolve when I changed out the cooling fans on the radiator. I've also seen people run a strap under each of the intake mani runners and lift that way. The contact stated the accelerator pedal was stuck in the up position while depressing the pedal, the vehicle failed to move. Had I known, I would not have bought the car, it was a waste of my money.
The vehicle was taken to the dealer where they performed a diagnostic test but could not duplicate the failure. The contact stated that upon starting the vehicle and shifting into different gears, it would not move. Then, obviously, check underneath the car. Glad I check my back lash before I sealed her up. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. One thing to do is refill your tranny with 1 quart of 10w30 synthetic motor oil, either valvoline or mobil1, then fill the rest up with the 80w90 gear lube.
I have no issues with driving short or moderate distances, only long highway trips. As is always the case, a large quantity remains in the torque converter. The traumatized and bruised motorist noticed smoke emanating from steering wheel, thus decided to step out of vehicle. Now, replace the plastic panel and the four clips. Accelerator appeared to be frozen and for a couple minutes actually accelerated. This is the first time that car died on me while driving.
We hope this video helps you out. Now, after tightening up preliminarily, we're going to use a torque wrench and tighten them to about anywhere between 12 and 15 foot-pounds. Just be careful when you're replacing this not to pinch any of the hoses. It felt like it was in 4th gear and I couldn't hardly move. Also seen that this type Matic S helps with transmission temps. Was driving south on hwy 101 in California at 60 mph. I've done several engine pulls on other cars where I pulled both together.
The problem is the fluid. Pull the clamp back and remove the hose and then you just want to remove these two 10 millimeter bolts. As you can see, we're missing a couple, but to remove them, all you need to do is pry them out using a pair of pliers. Once that's back in place, replace the hose back into the clip at the bottom and replace those two 10 millimeter bolts at the top of the fan. I'll just speed up, here, as Don basically put in all the bolts, put in by hand first just to make sure that they go in correctly. It became more and more troublesome. Now underneath this panel, you'll see these three hoses.