I'm sure glad that dude did the YouTube video, though. The sensor itself has a separate part number that I don't remember, but can supply if someone is looking to do this mod and needs the part number. I'm tracking the mileage now via Fuelly and added the banner to my sig line. Entering your vehicle information in our Year Make Model selector up top, helps ensure you get an auto part that fits your car, truck or other type of vehicle. I did find both the white slightly larger casing and gray wires on the back side of the harness closest to the manifold.
It also listens for engine run on which happens when the vehicle is turned off, but tries to keep running until it stalls. In my case, a misfire only when the engine was hot resulted in an error code for the knock sensor… From what my mechanic tells me, it is under the manifold. The sensor is attached to the cylinder block, cylinder head or intake manifold. My old knock sensor was giving an error, but since the 2000 Nissan Pathfinder has its knock sensor directly in the center of the engine, it was easier to relocate the sensor as well. I can verify, however, that there are two wires at the other end of the harness because I spliced them both.
To get a visual, remove the air cleaner and try to reach the ground from the newly formed opening. The timing belt isn't that bad, take the rad out, remove the belts, pulleys, plastic cover, etc. Most are located under the dash, on one side or the other, but some are found in weird places. The coax connects to the white harness wire and the white stripped wire connects to the clear on the harness. Do you know of a lower price? You could probably do it with a cheaper sensor, but getting the correct harness is very important. I highly recommend this store, because of the reasonable prices and quick mail delivery, the best thing is that the parts are high quality. You can kinda see a blue plug in the other pole exit of the harness, if you're looking at the sensor from the top it is coming from the left side of the plug.
We're here to help you find that perfect Knock Sensor for your Nissan Pathfinder. It should run for a few seconds then shut off. I think this is where your plan runs into a speedbump; there is ony one wire exiting the harness from the area of the left prong. The uses this signal to retard the ignition timing and protect the engine from this damaging pre-ignition. Has there been any noticeable improvement in fuel mileage? Sorry it's a little out of focus, but the words look the same except for the Nissan logo on it 180° from the harness plug. The sensor in a Nissan plays a passive role, so the engine may run fine without it functioning, but it will throw a code. It'll update as I go, but I've already driven about 70 miles and it's only just below the full line.
As far as I can tell, if there are two wires, they both connect on that one side of the harness plug and then separate into two wires down the line. Even back then, the relocation was pretty well established as a cheap fix for the problem. By the time I replaced the distributor, it was misfiring at 3500 rpm. AutoZone's Pathfinder oxygen sensors measure the oxygen in your rig's exhaust so your vehicle's computer sends the optimum mix of air and fuel to your engine. In this case, any… The way I changed my thermostat.
But that's pretty low on my mod list right now because its not leaking nearly as bad as the other side was, just a little seepage. It arrived on time and worked great. It detects cylinder knock incorrect detonation of the air-fuel mix and the engine computer adjusts timing and air-fuel ratio to compensate. The engine sounds great, the check engine light went out, and I hope to get another 100,000 miles. Lol The harness itself also carries the wiring for the fuel injectors, so study the Youtube video carefully. Truck still misfired at 4k rpm, then slowly got worse.
I don't know enough, that's for sure. I bought a Nissan knock sensor about a year ago but never put it in. This was confirmed on another forum, so I replaced the Dist. Available for various import and domestic makes and models, these knock sensors recognize all types of knock frequencies and help minimize the possibility of damaging internal engine components. Just to be clear, you completely cut the original wires leading to the stock sensor that is still bolted beneath the intake plenum, right? Make sure you wire the new sensor to the live wire, not the dead, after the cut! For more information, go to www.
We have worked hard to design a site that caters to everyones Nissan Pathfinder Knock Sensor needs. Somewhere down the line it becomes two, because there are two feeding the downstream connector and two that I stripped and spliced. The clear one looks like its on the right side but hard to tell. Since 1886, Bosch has developed innovative products—including spark plugs, starters, brakes and steering system parts—for the automotive aftermarket. I tried to buy this part at the local auto parts shops but the prices ranged from 150 without the cable plus an additional 65 for the cable. Pictures of the short block casting helped me.
No, form my eperience replacing that sucker the thermostat on the 1996 Nissan quest is on the left side of the engine, where your drive belts are located. I used to get 200-225 tops. Which code was it throwing? Here are some pics of the finished product: Knock sensor bolted onto intake with harness looped to left: Prettied up where I did my splicing: I think that harness is the same as a ev1 injector connector. When you cut into the cover and find the black-covered wire, the second wire is wrapped around the white wire inside the black cover and not separately insulated. If you have ever cut a cable wire you know exactly what I mean.
I filled up yesterday after only about 20 miles or so driving with the fix, and registered 14. The right lean-to-rich ratio maximizes gas mileage and protects your catalytic converter from damage. The forth is the set that you want to examine. This pressure is converted into a voltage signal and sent to the Engine Control Module. Here are two close-ups of the wire coming out of the harness on the sensor. Thanks again for any help.