You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view discussions and access other forum features. Lifts over the 6-in will require using either longer radius arms, or drop brackets. With the weight on the axle, it will allow you to install the track bar without having to rack the axle to one side or another. I also purchased from Precision Metal fab a drop track bar bracket and ajustible track bar. Had a 1970 Boss Mustang, Sold that! This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak.
Once the radius arms are bolted down the truck can hold its own weight up front, but jack stands kept under, the frame can keep any unexpected movements from happening. This is done in reverse order of removal; pretty easy. I do have to put a salter on it, so I think Ill be alright for ballast. Ill figure out the pictures and get them posted asap. You need to remove the F-250 pivot brackets.
It was all bolt on, minus drilling out a couple holes bigger. Removing the shocks should be pretty straight forward. I am using the 2. The first hole that had to be clearanced was on the front stock shackle hanger where the shackle bolts to it. Learn what to expect as you install a lift kit to your Ford. It can be done and the two axles are identical for mounting to the truck.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view discussions and access other forum features. Not only did I just put the axle in, I completely redid the suspension both front and rear. I live in North Jersey, minutes away from Manhattan. For a straight track bar fabrication to clear the crossmember, you may have to cut the front of the engine support crossmember off and reinforce the remainder. With that change, the truck is no longer fighting against itself when it hits bumps on the road. When you put your steering linkage together, do so on a work bench.
For instance my 97 f250 heavy duty powerstroke as the badges say came with the ttb, which was also one of the first things to go, it now sits as it should with a dana 60 up front. We try to focus on just introductions here, no technical talk. I plan on only doing moderate 4 wheeling in the far east valley. You'll love the power and reliability of a 7. I have an add a leaf up front and heavier rear springs it's handled anything I throw at it but it rides like crap without the plow. Please take a few minutes to look at the different sections our forum has to offer and then create your threads accordingly.
My thread linked in my signature may be of help but there are some other really good threads out there too. Even using the radius arms from a 1978 to 1979 front axle, the radius arm brackets will have to be moved to a different position on your frame. With the wheels off, mount the shocks and brake lines, and bolt the drive shaft back together. You can now drag the axle out from under the truck. As far as the stacked blocks, I dont see how they can fail if all the ubolts stay tight because of the nipples that keep them together. Does anybody have a good writeup on doing a Solid Axle Swap on an 87-96 F-250?? You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view discussions and access other forum features.
In addition, custom longer radius arms are available from aftermarket suppliers. The ubolts can flex, especially long ones. There is only 1 possible way for the holes to line up. Then bolt up the tie rod and drag link. While I had the shackle out I had to clearance some of the webbing out to when it moves it wouldnt interfere and hit the leaf spring.
How do you mount the track bar to the truck without booty fabbing, is there an aftermarket mount? The first hole that had to be clearanced was on the front stock shackle hanger where the shackle bolts to it. Remember, the long rod goes between the steering knuckles and the short rod comes from the pitman arm down to the cross over rod. The axle was manufactured in 2 different versions, a king pin and a ball joint version. I recommend completely replacing all the seals and u-joints in the axle while it is out. I'd mount that 8ft without batting an eye. I must add I did rebuild this axle from Hub to Hub, Every moving part was replaced. Id love to post some pictures but I dont see any options to do so here.
Preparation For the solid front axle swap, the truck must be lifted at least four inches by using taller coil springs. The 1979 was the last year F-150s and F-250s that had actual solid front axles. If you use a '94 or older Dana 60, you will have to do some modifications to your brakes as the '94 and older axles have a different caliper and caliper mount. This ties the two front hangers together and adds rigidity to the frame itself. Radius arms with extension on back. Long nuts are welded to the end of the tube, with threading to adjust a Johnny Joint—a bushing joint.
Thanks again for the tips, if theres anything else, keep'm coming. I'm running a 97 f250hd myself still ttb with plans to swap to a Dana 60. Truck drives excellent, no vibrations at high speeds and tracks straight. This lets you service your calipers if needed and add longer brake lines now so you don't have to do it during the swap. I would suggest putting new poly bushing in your springs,shackles and trac bar while everything is out. If you are using a '95-'97 axle, tie the axle up out of the way so you don't stretch the hoses.