Now since there has been no problems with the car at all and I change the oil every 5,000 miles, normally I would say just get the belt changed. So, yes you could wait and then just swap the engine when it self destructs. So much had to be removed before I was able to get off the pump. Loosen, then remove the drivebelts. The serpentine belt is squealing when the car is started so I know that probably needs to be done now. You can do that by either turning the crankshaft either clockwise or the firewall side camshaft pulley counter clockwise. The next one or two letters specify the engine family 3.
But for some strange reason, the V6's don't leak. You can also flush out the radiator, mine has a red cap underneath, when the engine is cold go ahead and remove that nut with a pan underneath, and drain the coolant from the radiator. Reinstall passenger side front wheel, lower vehicle. Meaning, if the belt breaks any valves left open will be hit by pistons before the engine comes to a c … omplete stop. Otherwise, the work involved to determine if the valves are bent, in my opinion, isn't worth it when I could be taking the time replacing the belt. This can be done by locating a dimple mark on the crankshaft pulley and rotating to the 12:00 o'clock position. His high quality car buying tutorials offer help to the car buying public.
That might be the price for a belt, idlers, water pump serpentine belts and possibly seals, but it sure as hell isn't a price for only the belt. No, it will not damage the engine, it is not an interference engine. Remove the hose clamp and hose from the metal tube located below the crankshaft pulley G. There are no prescribed timing chain replacement intervals. The timing belt is not related to the speed bumps. Good luck in any case. Use an impact driver, or do a quick twist of the socket wrench counter-clockwise, to spin off the crankshaft pulley without upsetting the alignment.
You mean the several thousand dollars to replace the engine if the belt fails? It is just a different choice. For the 105,000 mile service the engine coolant has to be replaced. To double check, temporaily re-install the lower timing belt cover and crankshaft. I'm forgetting where things went like brackets to ac conditioning and alt brackets. Thanks all for the advice. A chain should last the lifetime of the engine. Change intervals are conservative, so the belt should last more than that, but I'd say if it's 20% - 25% over the recommended interval, you should probably change it.
In other words, why change the timing belt if the engine is running fine? If this happens, the problem is usually between the right camshaft and the crankshaft. Depending on where the cams came to rest, you could have a valve open on every cylinder, so there wouldn't be any compression. The removal and installation timing is the same. As a last resort, find a friendly garage owner who'll torque the bolt off for you with their 180-lb air-powered impact driver. Even if there's a mild leak, switching to a Motor Oil for engines over 75K can swell the seal and stop the leakage. Gently lift the engine up from below, undo the mount at the passenger fender a 14mm bolt.
Hoping to have car back and ready for the big test in a day. I can't make a specific recommendation because not all Toyota's have the same recommended maintenance interval. Took to dealer they said broken timing belt. After installing the belt, you can do a compression leakage test to make sure the valves are still okay. Serpentine belt tensioner problems signs of wear when to replace glazed serpentine belt vs a new belt. The next time a start is attempted the engine will not turn over.
I'll guess you'll have to advance the Camshaft Sprocket just one cog clockwise. After the mount has been removed, unbolt the mount bracket which will allow access to the belt tensioner bolts for removal. I would like to shortcut this and not do bank 1. The 4 is no problem. Any ideas what the issue is, will really appreciated. If it breaks you're stuck, but at least it's a no-interference engine 4-cyl and you don't bend valves.
Overdrive is standard in a 4-speed automatic transmission. The first one also had to be done at 50,000 miles or less. I'm sorry, but I think it's just lazy engineering to use a timing belt when a better solution exists. I remove the belt but messed up the timing marks. If you insist on doing the job yourself, make certain that you use the proper tool. So I am going to go ahead and have it changed. Either build a non-interference engine or use a timing chain instead.