Sep 03, 2014 You mean the big axle nut? That's why I asked the initial question. Has anyone had any problems with the plastic cover? A new billet aluminum one seems safer, but quite expensive. I would suggest replacing the composite cover with a stamped steel one while your are at it. Repeat this process until you see 20-30 inch-pounds of torque required to get the pinion to turn. How'd you find such an old thread? Maybe 25 with new bearings. However, the metal cover uses different bolts than the composite cover. I would shoot for 20 with used bearings.
Do this right and have a happy ever after with your 8. I too replaced my composite cover with a metal Ford one. Mark Use a Gasket I use a gasket between my cover and the rear end. Could someone give me an idea of how tight I should tighten them? Both my vehicles had 100,000 Kms on them 60,000 miles when I changed them to synthetic. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. I'd rather do it myself so I know exactly what I'm getting. I broke my composite cover when I backed into a rock, the billet aluminum ones will do the same thing although not as easily.
Loosen the nut while the car is still on the ground, you may even need a cheater bar on the breaker bar-the axle nuts are torqued down mighty tight-about 200 foot pounds. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. . Thanks for all your help in advance. If not, definately less than 25 ft-lbs makes sense.
If the axle shaft is stubborn and won't move yet, put a piece of wood on the end of the shaft and rap it pretty hard with a mallet or hammer. I have never had a leaking type problem. Anybody know the actual torque value, is the number in the Chilton manual just an uncorrected mistake? If there is a chance water has gotten in at any time it should be changed right away. They are available from Ford, and I will get the part number if anyone needs it. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk.
It's basically very simple once you get the axle out you will see how it all comes apart. Do this by taking off the pinion flange holder and using your inch-pound beam style torque wrench. Be sure to torque the axle nut and locking nut correctly upon reassembly. The video is applicable to the 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 Ford F150. Get the pinion nut tighten up so there is no longer play in the pinion shaft.
Personnally, I change fluid every 15,000 miles, water or not. As far as frequency of changing I think the haynes manual has this listed under the maintenance section. The pinion nut is a lock-nut so it should be replaced any time it is removed. You need a beam style inch-pound torque wrench. Again, this is probably overkill, but it is easier to change it in my garage than on the trail in the mud.
That will expose the axle nuts to the axle hub that you will need to remove to replace the inner wheel seal. Then the 25-35 ft-lbs makes sense. I changed my rear differential fluid about 3000 miles ago, and it has been leaking ever since. Once you break it loose, then raise the car on jackstands, remove the nut and washer, and push the axle back from the spindle. Is 100,000 reasonable if you have extended the breather tubes so no water gets in? So I backed off to 10 ft-lbs and left it. Yes, it's overkill, but I'd rather not have any leaks. You have to gradually tighten the new pinion nut until it takes the same amount of torque to rotate the pinion as it did before disassembly.
All I did was clean the area and smear a little black silicone on it and the leak has stopped. I read thru that conversion once, but I don't remember much if anything about it. Once loose put a pry bar between the transmission and the axle and pry the axle out of the transmission. There is not a torque spec per se on the pinion nut. I'm preparing to swap to a '97-up rear axle with disks when my tires wear out, so I'm thinking about getting a 4-link coil-sprung 9.
There will be a little gear lube that will come out that you will need to replace before you use the vehicle again after you replace the wheel seal. I coat both sides of the gasket with Permatex Ultra Copper gasket sealer before installing. Might be a little hard to pry out but it will pop right out. I think that I overtightened the cover, distorting the shape slightly. Also, how often should you replace the fluid? The Haynes manual for the Ranger doesn't have the torq specs listed. You need a pinion flange holding tool just use a peice of flat stock with 2 holes drilled in it so you can bolt it to the pinion flange and let the other end rest against the leaf spring.