The problem does appear to be worse when the car is hot. It would make sense that it works fine when hot because the resistance on the sensor is a lot lower. I'm no mechanic and I've replaced it twice on the same year model and it appears i will… The starter for a 91 Nissan Maxima is located in the front of the motor. As a precautionary action, it is smart to habitually take care of your automotive in regular basis between drives. This does not quite fit the bill there.
Decreased level of driving quality and general functionality, higher petrol consumption, or threat of component malfunction are merely several negative aspects of driving a car with a defective auto component. There was plenty of gas in there and in the filter. Thanks in advance for your help! If your vehicle is high miles, which would be normal for a 94, you could have a bad starter. I finally checked the codes manually by counting the check engine light. Your switch is not difficult to replace. I counted them about 7 times each. It seems that your Ignition Switch is erratic.
Took to Nissan dealer for diagnosis. If any of these are found unattached…reattach them. Quote: Still grinds for a while, then catches with a roar. Look on the floor in fron of the drivers seat. Jul 26, 2009 Hello, I would assume this is a starter problem. Next in line would be the inhibitor relay unless this car has seen a lot of key cycles, which means most of the driving has been short hops and many trips. It only tells you that there is electricity…not how many volts or the amperage that flows from the battery.
It's just a stupid expensive magnet. A click, the starter turning normal, turning fast, the starter turning the engine normal or slow etc. I have a 1997 Maxima automatic with 150k. I let the fuel drain from the top hose then i hooked it back up. What I do not understand is why it starts by pop starting it, but not by cranking with a key. It is cylinder like in shape with a little cylinder thing hooked to it solenoid. Checked fuel pressure, 50 psi at ignition, 38 on cranking.
Install the starter wiring in the correct location. Speaks volumes - battery isn't up to par. You dont have to take anything apart all you need is a swivle the starter is located right benaeth the intake manifold you must take out the air filter housing and disconnect all the lil hoses which are going into the air box and it will be visible right underneath but you will need alot of leevrae to undo the bolts it is ver hard to do i have done it takes 30-45 mins sometimes even an hoir good luck before doing anything disconnect the negative cable from the battery of the car. If voltage is low, then there wont' be enough power to crank the engine and the battery has to be replaced. Take an ohm meter if you have one and check the resistance across the temp sensor pins. This replacement product is properly designed to perform like the primary starter that came installed with your car or truck. The sensor code is probably not the cuase.
Apparently oil traveled the line and got into the electrical connection, the sensor was done after that. The wires aren't necessary to change at all and the O2 is way way overkill. If the anti-drainback valve is defective, all the oil will drain back into the pan. Any help would be greatly appreciated. When it did start, it ran fine. Those conditions would make starting more difficult, which he is experiencing. I really appreciate the continued help; I hate to just start changing out parts, as that gets expensive.
It's the black wire with a white stripe if you have a stick and black with yellow stripe for auto trans. Just keeping my eye out for possible oil leak. Now I'm thinking we are checking for a spark the wrong way 7. Feb 03, 2018 From your description it sounds like the car will start when it is warm out? Thanks to all those who replied so far. Yes, most likely the switch but possibly the anti-theft system. Replacement starter may be drawing too much among many possible things too. I am questioning a sensor, possibly Crank Position Sensor, or Cam Position Sensor.
Too make a long story short it turned out to be the ignition switch wiring harness. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional. Before connecting the cables, apply a coating of di-electric grease to the battery posts this will keep oxygen away from the connection so that it will not corrode as fast. You didn't mention what happens when you try to restart, does it crank over normally or not at all? It is relatively easy to access and replace. As for the fule shouting out of the filter, i definitely learned my lesson. You access it from underneath the car; remove the driver's side splash shield on the bottom of the car and look up.