Other things to take into consideration would be the position of: pedals, E-brake, clutch and master cylinder, Steering wheel, fuse box etc… I would think the less that you have to adjust or maneuver the less work it would be, but that not to say that the stock position in the donor truck will fit into the classic truck and might have to be moved in the end in-order to fit correctly, so it could result in more work. The track width is fairly close, but you will have to narrow the frame in the middle, refab bumper and radiator mounts,new cab supports, deal with the kick-up in the rear, and on and on. There is no lip at the bottom of the bore so the sleeve drops and the rings pop out the top of the liner and then it's over. She's solid and stripped down to bare nothing naked. Now i don't have that problem. At least the have a return policy. The rails are fully welded, and the corner welds smoothed.
Before anybody jumps on you about this, I'll point out that the wheels and the newer bed on your truck are way outside the traditional focus of this message board. Then after viewing them we could ask more specific questions or for specific measurements. Many other chassis options are available, such as Custom-built ride heights, Air ride, Wilwood brake upgrades, new 3rd members, etc. The only question now is whether the same will take place in the United States… and all signs point to that being the case. I have a 1996 Chevy C-10 that was used as a work truck for the family business since it was new.
Isn't the S10 front too narrow? Maybe those of us posting on sites such as this may be able to remember those things as we are mostly enthusiasts. First, why replace the Trax moniker at all? Setting of the classic body onto the chassis of a donor truck by the adjustments of key components like body mounts etc. Wanted to take one last look before they lift the body in case I find a disaster under there. He got the bags and the chop to get rid of the harrasment and to make it look cooler. The frame splices are worse than ugly, and the front suspension sits very low and scrapes over bumps if i'm not careful. Later, Kinky6 The earlier frames, 67-72 are still flat between kick ups unlike later frames which have an additional drop in the frame below the cab and require tall front mounts.
I think an S-10 frontend would put the wheels too deep in the fenderwells. Currently working with a buddy of mine who owns a large salvage yard. If so that would be a plus. And one of those methods is called out rather loudly in this recent video from YouTuber and Ford truck owner. As I said above, all of these specs came from a factory service manual, get one and you will not be disappointed! The oval shaped holes in the chassis are gauge holes.
The first being the traditional frames swap only. . Got the cab off the old frame yesterday and will proceed with the mock up Monday night after the frame is delivered. . I had to shorten the frame 10 inches and modified the F-1 body mounts to work on the Dakota frame.
Trax is a top three sales leader and therefore not a name to kill off. Monte Carlo Olds Cutlass etc. Then you can drill out the rivets in the rear spring hangers on both frames, remove the original rear end and springs with hangers and install the later rear end with springs and hangers in the original frame if newer donner has leaf rear springs. . If the floor is already rusted out and in need of replacement or repair one must take into consideration the time, labor, and expense to repair or replace the floor as well or to try and graft in the floor of the donor truck? Brown, that's very much what I have in mind; a stock-looking vintage truck on a later chassis. But you got to find a donor frame without frame damage etc. With that you cant expect to lower the truck past the wheel height to much as well.
Thus, cost-cutting methods have to be made somewhere. I think that I'd go with just the straight body swap, rather than trying to merge the newer firewall and floor into the vintage cab, unless there was a really compelling reason for this. No wheels or tires included. It just needs to be a solid vehicle in class and be priced effectively. You will just have to do some measuring-just have to find which chassis has a similar wheel track. I get about 50 e mails a year asking for them. It happens to be a 4x4 but should be the same frame.
Posted via Mobile Device I agree with you on the stuffed wheel appearance. The only thing i dont care for about the green truck is that the wheels seem a little stuffed in the front wheel wells and not in the fender enough, but thats just my opinion, and the truck looks well put togther. I don't believe the track width changed from 1955-1959 but I could be mistaken. John's truck is chopped 4 in the back and I think 5 in the front. That would generate increased sales and revenue and arrest falling market share. It looks like your front fenders sit lower than on R. I definately liked how they came out.