The alarm when it was working wouldn't even turn over and it was fitted in 1989 by the dealer so I would imagine it to be quite basic. The car does have an immobiliser that I dont ever arm as it played up a while ago. I can't remember whether I should be able to hear the fuel pump when I turn the ignition or not as I can't hear anything now. Caution: Before hooking up your pressure gauge, relieve all pressure in the fuel system. Bôtween terminals Resistance Temperature Ei - V.
What will I actually get? I can't imagine it will be hard to find a proper unit form a scrapper. The fuel pressure regulator also should be tested, and a fuel pressure drop test performed to check for dirty fuel injectors. If you are working on a vehicle that does not have a pressure test fitting, you will have to tee a pressure gauge into the fuel line just ahead of the injector fuel rail. I havent completely stripped everything out I have one or two wires left, but would the alarm have anything to do with this! If there is voltage but the pump is not running, you have found the problem: a bad fuel pump. When there is not enough fuel pressure, the engine may not start. I think I would retain the resistor in the pump feed by-passed just for cranking , as I figure it would increase the life of the pump and I've never had any fuelling issues. The Solution: There is an easy way around this.
This will be the new supply for the fuel pump. You check the fuel pressure at the rail or tee-in on the line. I removed the earth wire for the alarm and played with several connectors but everything was reconnected. Is there any way on this setup to account for something like that? Its no longer in use and I plan to remove it. If no leakage, investigate other areas.
However it just doesn't seem to be running quite right and its hard to put my finger on, its not like its dropping a cylinder or anything just not quite as smooth as it was before, the other thing is the boost gauge when engine running is hitting the top and reading over 8. I bow to all your superior knowledge!!!!!! I can see a reason to do it and a reason not to as well. The boost gauge will read full scale if the boost sensor is unplugged. I guess if this car gets hit hard enough at this point to knock me out I may as well go with it. Reffering to the switch are they talking about an external switch like a toggle switch or would this be a type of ground that I am not familiar with? Unplug the connector from the No. I still seem to have a problem with the boost gauge tho, had a play around with the turbo sensor connector and the only difference that made was instead of sitting at the top of the guage it sits just over 0 when idling and driving normally.
You could have disturbed or left a Earth wire off under the dash? This is done by bypassing the fuel pump relay and energizing the pump directly. Residual Fuel Pressure Test When the pump is turned off or stops running, the system should hold residual pressure for several minutes look up the specs to see how much pressure drop is allowed over a given period of time. Then sunday after it running fine over the weekend, i dropped into the supermarket to grab a few things in the rain, when I came out the car wouldn't start. This guide will enable you to revive All NiCd batteries regardless of brand and battery volt. Always use new gaskets when replacing the fuel tank or component parts. I'm sure I can smell fuel from the tail pipe faintly after turning it over.
Car is driving fine and boosting ok, any thoughts?? You may shorten the life of your fuel pump from say 20 years down to 18 years, but nothing to worry about in the short term. And maintain engine speed at 2,500 rpm. This generally came in two forms- the naturally aspirated 3. There should be a blue wire with a red stripe. Running Fuel Pressure Test With the engine idling, compare the gauge reading to specifications. Check the voltage at the pump.
The Problem: When modifications are made to the car to increase boost pressure and engine breathing ability, some owners have experienced detonation around 4000 rpm, as the 2nd turbo builds boost and comes on line. Where would the alarm connect into the fuel pump for me to check? The injectors control the fuel input to each cylinder so, shut off on overrun while the regulator controls the pressure in the fuel rail. Alternatively, you may perhaps have an immobiliser fitted with a bad relay. The mark 3 Supra production run finished in 1991, and was replaced by the, yes you guessed it, mark 4 supra. If you ground that wire the fuel pump will operate as normal. I havent completely stripped everything out I have one or two wires left, but would the alarm have anything to do with this! I tried bridging when the ignition was on but didnt hear anything Did you do this with the ignition on? Once I can verify the specs I'll order one and try it on mine.
To determine the voltage to my fuel pump, I've connected a wire to the 'Fp' connection in the diagnosis box to my multimeter. Various sensors come into play to determine when high and low speed operation should be used. If you are working on a vehicle that does not have a pressure test fitting, you will have to tee a pressure gauge into the fuel line just ahead of the injector fuel rail. So get a dictionary and we can both figure it out. Apply the proper torque to all tightening parts. Unfortunately info is hard to come by on these.